Textiles
and design
1.
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Dyeing
and printing are important fabric decoration techniques
for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander textile
designers. Identify the main dyeing and printing
techniques and indicate which groups specialise
in each one. For example, Utopia is renowned for
its batik. |
2. |
A cap (also
known as tjap) is used as a block in batik. Design
your own cap design using the Australian bush for
design inspiration. How could you apply this design
to fabric given that you are probably unable to
produce a copper cap? |
3. |
Research the basket and bag making skills of Aboriginal
people. What applications can you see for contemporary
design? |
4. |
Identify the external factors that have affected
Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander textile design
since 1901. |
5. |
Aboriginal textile designers produce designs for
all of the focus areas in the syllabus:
- apparel
- furnishings
- costume
- textile
arts
- non-apparel.
For
each focus area identify an Aboriginal textile
designer working in the focus area.
Select one focus area and discuss the influence
of Aboriginal people on contemporary design in
that area.
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7. |
Robyn Caughlan has designed a number of national
costumes for the Miss Australia representative
in the Miss Universe pageant. The Aboriginal
wedding dress is one of Robyn's designs which
has a powerful statement to make about Aboriginal
people being wedded to the land.
Sketch
the design and suggest both construction and design
feature labels.
Aboriginal wedding dress
by Robyn Caughlan. Modelled by Aleria French.
Photo: Christopher Toh. Courtesy: Robyn Caughlan.
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8. |
Discuss the statement below using examples from
the case study.
Textiles
are a medium for self-expression and communication
between people.
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9. |
Select one Aboriginal textile design group and
identify the cultural influences on their designs.
Include:
- geographic
location
- technological
development
- resources
available
- religious
practices
- workers'
skills
- status.
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10.
Many Aboriginal textile designers are successful
contemporary designers. Select one designer and
analyse how the following factors may affect or
have affected the success or failure of designers:
external
factors
- economic
- political - social
- ecological
- technological |
internal
factors
- expertise
- facilities
- finance |
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11. |
Prepare a forum with other class members to examine
the following statement:
Aboriginal
design in recent times has been influenced by
the effects of tourism.
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12. |
As with all designers, marketing can impact significantly
on success or failure. The Internet is just one
aspect of marketing. Compare the web sites of
two of the following Aboriginal textile designers:
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13. |
Lenore Dembski follows a holistic approach to design
in that the fabric and fashions are designed and
produced by Aboriginal people. In addition she has
a number of labels to service a cross-section of
the community. Discuss the benefits of such an inclusive
approach to Aboriginal culture. |
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Design
and technology
1. |
Lenore Dembski could be described as an entrepreneur.
Identify the steps she has taken to ensure her label
is Australian and promotes Aboriginal culture. |
2. |
Explain how the introduction of batik (an ancient
technique from another culture) to Ernabella and
Utopia provided opportunities for innovation in
their textile design. |
3. |
Examine
the marketing strategies of at least two of the
following Aboriginal design groups:
- Tobwabba
- Tiwi
Design
- Utopia
- Ernabella.
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4. |
Entrepreneurial activity is often associated with
an individual, big money and major market share.
Examine and discuss if a cooperative venture such
as Tiwi Design or Tobwabba is entrepreneurial. |
5. |
Debate the following:
Cooperative design corporations allow greater
economic independence and realise employment opportunities
for Aboriginal Australians. |
6. |
Copyright of Aboriginal designs has been a contentious
issue. Explain how a Label of Authenticity
may both protect the interests of the designer and
increase the value of the object. |
7. |
Consider the following scenario. You have been asked
to design a uniform for the National Parks and Wildlife
Service. You decide to use an "Aboriginal inspired"
fabric for the shirts. What should you do to ensure
copyright is not breached? Do the same issues apply
if you use a fabric produced by a large manufacturer? |
8. |
The following design has been provided to you
by an Aboriginal designer for use as furnishing
fabric. A description of the design, background
to the designer and the dreamtime story have been
given to you. Create a label from the information
provided that would be suitable for attachment
to furniture.
Textile length, Jurrukuni
(Owl), black screen-print on rust-red cotton,
designed as a border pattern by Giovanni Tipungwuti
in 1973, re-developed as an all-over design
by Osmond Kantilla 1993. Printed at Tiwi Design,
Bathurst Island, Northern Territory in 1996.
96/303/1.
Powerhouse Museum Collection.
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Description
Textile length of rust-red cotton, with all-over
repeating design in black ink. Double vertical
lines are repeated across the fabric, and in between,
an abstract repeat design of an owl, based around
two joined double circles across, and various
small sections of hatched lines.
Design
Designed by Giovanni Tipungwuti (1953-1993) as
a border design, based on the Tiwi story of the
owl-man, in 1973. Giovanni Tipungwuti worked as
a textile designer and printer at Tiwi Design
from about 1969-1984. It was expanded without
change as an all-over pattern by Osmond Kantilla
(darkroom technician) in 1993.
Story
from the dreamtime
During creation times when all the animals and
birds were still men and women, Purutjikini, a
boo-book owl man and his wife Pintoma, a barn-owl
woman, held the first kurlama ceremony on the
south-west of Bathurst Island. They invited people
including Jirikati (white-headed sea eagle) and
Tupatupini, the small owl and the Nigauis, who
are small spirit people still inhabiting the mangrove
swamps of the area. (Tiwi Design, 1983)
Original
Owl design can be seen at: http://www.tiwiart.com/tiwi/textile/design/tiwi_design20.htm
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9. |
Identify and discuss areas of textile production
that utilise new technologies that may be useful
to one of the designers in the case study. |
10. |
Appropriate technology is an important issue for
Aboriginal people living in remote areas. Select
one design group from a remote location and explain
why the techniques they use are suitable for their
needs. |
11. |
Why
would batik be considered an appropriate technology
for Aboriginal people in remote locations? |
12. |
Explain the influence of Australia's cultural diversity,
in particular the Aboriginal people, on textile
design in Australia in the 21st century. |
References
ATSIC (1998) Fibrecrafts, Aboriginal and Torres
Strait Islander Commission, Canberra. Phone 02 6121
4000 to purchase a copy of the pamphlet.
Bancroft, B. (1995) "Jeans for Genes" raises
money, The Koori Mail, Wednesday May 31, p. 30.
Community Aid Abroad (1994) Aboriginal art calendar,
Community Aid Abroad.
Cochrane, G. (1992) The Crafts Movement in Australia:
A History, New South Wales University Press, p.
243.
Cochrane, P. (1990) Our lady of the sacred screen-print,
The Sydney Morning Herald, Saturday, November
10.
Cochrane Simons, S. (1991) Koori kopyright, The Sydney
Morning Herald, 19th December, Arts section.
Desart (2000) Putting in the colour: Contemporary
Aboriginal textiles, Jukurrpa Books, Alice Springs,
p. 35, 43, 45.
Djuttara, E. (1992) Elizabeth Djuttara, Textile Fibre
Forum, Vol 11, Issue 3, No 35, p. 34.
Epaminondas, G. (2000) Billabong man, The Sydney
Morning Herald, Fashion Week Focus, p. 4.
Hilliard, W. (1992) Ernabella Arts Incorporated: The
story of an industry, Textile Fibre Forum, Vol
11, Issue 3, No 35, pp. 32-33.
Jackson, L. (1987) Linda Jackson: The art of fashion,
Fontana, Sydney.
McGauran, P. (2000) Indigenous arts appointments, Media
release, http://www.deita.gov.au/nsap
/?Mival=dca_dispdoc&pathid=544
NIAAA (1999) Stopping the rip-offs with a Label of
Authenticity, NIAAA flier.
NIAAA (1996) Tired of being ripped off?, National
Indigenous Arts Advocacy Association Inc Newsletter,
p. 1.
O'Ferrall, M. (1995) Jimmy Pike: Desert Designs 1981-1995,
Art Gallery of Western Australia, Perth.
Partos, L. (1998) Batik from Ernabella: Ernabella
Arts Incorporated Catalogue, Canberra School of
Arts, Institute of the Arts, Australian National University.
Powerhouse Museum (1989) Australian fashion: the
contemporary art catalogue, Powerhouse Museum, p.
5.
Rowley, S. (1997) Crossing borders catalogue,
University of Wollongong.
The Koori Mail (1998) Documentary looks at copyright
issues, The Koori Mail, January 28, p. 15.
The Koori Mail (1998) It's a "House of Aboriginality",
The Koori Mail, July 1, p. 3.
Further
reading
Isaacs, J. (1989) Aboriginality: Contemporary Aboriginal
paintings and prints, University of Queensland Press,
Brisbane.
Cochrane, G. (1992) The Crafts Movement in Australia:
A History, New South Wales University Press, Chapters
4, 6 and 8.
Desart (2000) Putting in the colour: Contemporary
Aboriginal textiles, Jukurrpa Books, Alice
Springs. Email: iadpress@ozemail.com.au
Videos
Women of Utopia, FP83228, Film Australia, 9413
8777.
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