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Paperbark woman: Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander fashion design

Textiles and design

1. Dyeing and printing are important fabric decoration techniques for Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander textile designers. Identify the main dyeing and printing techniques and indicate which groups specialise in each one. For example, Utopia is renowned for its batik.
2. A cap (also known as tjap) is used as a block in batik. Design your own cap design using the Australian bush for design inspiration. How could you apply this design to fabric given that you are probably unable to produce a copper cap?
3. Research the basket and bag making skills of Aboriginal people. What applications can you see for contemporary design?
4. Identify the external factors that have affected Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander textile design since 1901.
5.

Aboriginal textile designers produce designs for all of the focus areas in the syllabus:

  • apparel
  • furnishings
  • costume
  • textile arts
  • non-apparel.

For each focus area identify an Aboriginal textile designer working in the focus area.
Select one focus area and discuss the influence of Aboriginal people on contemporary design in that area.

7.

Robyn Caughlan has designed a number of national costumes for the Miss Australia representative in the Miss Universe pageant. The Aboriginal wedding dress is one of Robyn's designs which has a powerful statement to make about Aboriginal people being wedded to the land.

Sketch the design and suggest both construction and design feature labels.

Aboriginal wedding dress
Aboriginal wedding dress by Robyn Caughlan. Modelled by Aleria French. Photo: Christopher Toh. Courtesy: Robyn Caughlan.
8.

Discuss the statement below using examples from the case study.

Textiles are a medium for self-expression and communication between people.

9.

Select one Aboriginal textile design group and identify the cultural influences on their designs. Include:

  • geographic location
  • technological development
  • resources available
  • religious practices
  • workers' skills
  • status.
 

10. Many Aboriginal textile designers are successful contemporary designers. Select one designer and analyse how the following factors may affect or have affected the success or failure of designers:

external factors
- economic
- political - social
- ecological
- technological
internal factors
- expertise
- facilities
- finance

11.

Prepare a forum with other class members to examine the following statement:

Aboriginal design in recent times has been influenced by the effects of tourism.

12.

As with all designers, marketing can impact significantly on success or failure. The Internet is just one aspect of marketing. Compare the web sites of two of the following Aboriginal textile designers:

13. Lenore Dembski follows a holistic approach to design in that the fabric and fashions are designed and produced by Aboriginal people. In addition she has a number of labels to service a cross-section of the community. Discuss the benefits of such an inclusive approach to Aboriginal culture.
   

Design and technology

1. Lenore Dembski could be described as an entrepreneur. Identify the steps she has taken to ensure her label is Australian and promotes Aboriginal culture.
2. Explain how the introduction of batik (an ancient technique from another culture) to Ernabella and Utopia provided opportunities for innovation in their textile design.
3.

Examine the marketing strategies of at least two of the following Aboriginal design groups:

  • Tobwabba
  • Tiwi Design
  • Utopia
  • Ernabella.
4. Entrepreneurial activity is often associated with an individual, big money and major market share. Examine and discuss if a cooperative venture such as Tiwi Design or Tobwabba is entrepreneurial.
5. Debate the following:
Cooperative design corporations allow greater economic independence and realise employment opportunities for Aboriginal Australians.
6. Copyright of Aboriginal designs has been a contentious issue. Explain how a Label of Authenticity may both protect the interests of the designer and increase the value of the object.
7. Consider the following scenario. You have been asked to design a uniform for the National Parks and Wildlife Service. You decide to use an "Aboriginal inspired" fabric for the shirts. What should you do to ensure copyright is not breached? Do the same issues apply if you use a fabric produced by a large manufacturer?
8.

The following design has been provided to you by an Aboriginal designer for use as furnishing fabric. A description of the design, background to the designer and the dreamtime story have been given to you. Create a label from the information provided that would be suitable for attachment to furniture.


Textile length, Jurrukuni (Owl), black screen-print on rust-red cotton, designed as a border pattern by Giovanni Tipungwuti in 1973, re-developed as an all-over design by Osmond Kantilla 1993. Printed at Tiwi Design, Bathurst Island, Northern Territory in 1996. 96/303/1.
Powerhouse Museum Collection.

Description
Textile length of rust-red cotton, with all-over repeating design in black ink. Double vertical lines are repeated across the fabric, and in between, an abstract repeat design of an owl, based around two joined double circles across, and various small sections of hatched lines.

Design
Designed by Giovanni Tipungwuti (1953-1993) as a border design, based on the Tiwi story of the owl-man, in 1973. Giovanni Tipungwuti worked as a textile designer and printer at Tiwi Design from about 1969-1984. It was expanded without change as an all-over pattern by Osmond Kantilla (darkroom technician) in 1993.

Story from the dreamtime
During creation times when all the animals and birds were still men and women, Purutjikini, a boo-book owl man and his wife Pintoma, a barn-owl woman, held the first kurlama ceremony on the south-west of Bathurst Island. They invited people including Jirikati (white-headed sea eagle) and Tupatupini, the small owl and the Nigauis, who are small spirit people still inhabiting the mangrove swamps of the area. (Tiwi Design, 1983)

Original Owl design can be seen at: http://www.tiwiart.com/tiwi/textile/design/tiwi_design20.htm

 

9. Identify and discuss areas of textile production that utilise new technologies that may be useful to one of the designers in the case study.
10. Appropriate technology is an important issue for Aboriginal people living in remote areas. Select one design group from a remote location and explain why the techniques they use are suitable for their needs.
11. Why would batik be considered an appropriate technology for Aboriginal people in remote locations?
12. Explain the influence of Australia's cultural diversity, in particular the Aboriginal people, on textile design in Australia in the 21st century.


References

ATSIC (1998) Fibrecrafts, Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Commission, Canberra. Phone 02 6121 4000 to purchase a copy of the pamphlet.
Bancroft, B. (1995) "Jeans for Genes" raises money, The Koori Mail, Wednesday May 31, p. 30.
Community Aid Abroad (1994) Aboriginal art calendar, Community Aid Abroad.
Cochrane, G. (1992) The Crafts Movement in Australia: A History, New South Wales University Press, p. 243.
Cochrane, P. (1990) Our lady of the sacred screen-print, The Sydney Morning Herald, Saturday, November 10.
Cochrane Simons, S. (1991) Koori kopyright, The Sydney Morning Herald, 19th December, Arts section.
Desart (2000) Putting in the colour: Contemporary Aboriginal textiles, Jukurrpa Books, Alice Springs, p. 35, 43, 45.
Djuttara, E. (1992) Elizabeth Djuttara, Textile Fibre Forum, Vol 11, Issue 3, No 35, p. 34.
Epaminondas, G. (2000) Billabong man, The Sydney Morning Herald, Fashion Week Focus, p. 4.
Hilliard, W. (1992) Ernabella Arts Incorporated: The story of an industry, Textile Fibre Forum, Vol 11, Issue 3, No 35, pp. 32-33.
Jackson, L. (1987) Linda Jackson: The art of fashion, Fontana, Sydney.
McGauran, P. (2000) Indigenous arts appointments, Media release, http://www.deita.gov.au/nsap…/?Mival=dca_dispdoc&pathid=544
NIAAA (1999) Stopping the rip-offs with a Label of Authenticity, NIAAA flier.
NIAAA (1996) Tired of being ripped off?, National Indigenous Arts Advocacy Association Inc Newsletter, p. 1.
O'Ferrall, M. (1995) Jimmy Pike: Desert Designs 1981-1995, Art Gallery of Western Australia, Perth.
Partos, L. (1998) Batik from Ernabella: Ernabella Arts Incorporated Catalogue, Canberra School of Arts, Institute of the Arts, Australian National University.
Powerhouse Museum (1989) Australian fashion: the contemporary art catalogue, Powerhouse Museum, p. 5.
Rowley, S. (1997) Crossing borders catalogue, University of Wollongong.
The Koori Mail (1998) Documentary looks at copyright issues, The Koori Mail, January 28, p. 15.
The Koori Mail (1998) It's a "House of Aboriginality", The Koori Mail, July 1, p. 3.

Further reading
Isaacs, J. (1989) Aboriginality: Contemporary Aboriginal paintings and prints, University of Queensland Press, Brisbane.
Cochrane, G. (1992) The Crafts Movement in Australia: A History, New South Wales University Press, Chapters 4, 6 and 8.
Desart (2000) Putting in the colour: Contemporary Aboriginal textiles, Jukurrpa Books, Alice
Springs. Email: iadpress@ozemail.com.au

Videos
Women of Utopia, FP83228, Film Australia, 9413 8777.

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