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Evolution and revolution: Chinese dress 1700s-1990s
1. a) Identify key changes in Chinese dress from Qing dynasty to the present.
b) Explain the political, economic or social changes which laid the foundations for these changes. For example, at the end of the Qing dynasty men were not forced to shave the front of their head and have a long plait (queue).
2. Indantren dye was used in cloth for cheungsam. It is a vat dye. Explain the basic principles of this type of dyeing. Suggested texts:
Gohl, E. P. G. and Vilensky, L. D. (1983) Textiles for Modern Living, 3rd Edition, Longman Cheshire, Melbourne.
Fritz, A. and Cant, J. (1986) Consumer Textiles, Oxford University Press, Melbourne.
3. Sketch three different collars and right fastening lapels for a cheungsam including the huaniu.
4. Discuss in 250-300 words why the cheungsam has been such a popular garment. Consider social, aesthetic and functional reasons.
5. Briefly outline in 250 words the historical development of Chinese costume and discuss its influence on contemporary design.
6. Identify a contemporary designer influenced by Chinese dress. Analyse the designer's influence on current trends. Approximately 250 words.
7. Research fabric decoration techniques used on the cheungsam. Include illustrations. Sketch two or three designs on a fashion drawing of a cheungsam.
8.

Further expand this case study by researching the influence of the following on Chinese design from one period between the 1700s-1990s. For example the Republican period or the Mao period:

  • geographic locations
  • technological development
  • resources available
  • religious practices
  • workers' skills and practices
9. Explain how the end of British rule in Hong Kong has influenced apparel designers.
10. What developments in China in the early 1900s would have led to the cessation of foot binding?
11. Find a picture of the Australian safari suit and compare this to the Sun Yat-Sen suit. List the similarities and differences.
12. Look through fashion magazines and find a garment which in some way has been inspired by Chinese influences.
13.

Using both historical and contemporary Chinese designs, develop your own individual designs for a range of one of the following:

  • youth apparel
  • evening wear
  • furnishing items.

References
Jackson, L. (1987) Linda Jackson, Fontana Books, Sydney.
Readers Digest (1978) Complete guide to sewing, Readers Digest, Sydney, p. 357 and 361.
Pang, M. A. (1989) Dragon Emperor, Treasures from the Forbidden City, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, pp. 38-39.
Powerhouse Museum (1989) Australian fashion: the contemporary art catalogue, Powerhouse Museum, p. 5.
Reader's Digest (1978) Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, Reader's Digest (Australia), Sydney, p. 357, 361.
Roberts, C. (1997) Evolution and revolution, Chinese dress 1700s-1900s, Powerhouse Museum, Sydney.

Further reading
Steele, V. and Major, J. S. (1999) China Chic, East meets west, Yale University Press, London.
Jackson, B. (1997) Splendid slippers, Ten Speed Press, California.

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